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What is the capital of the Lassithi province?

Agios Nikolaos and the Voulismeni lake

The city of Agios Nikolaos is the capital of the prefecture Lassithi and has about 8500 inhabitants. The touristic attraction of the city is the former lake of Voulismeni in the heart of the city surrounded by many terraces. The lake is 64 metres deep and is also called ‘the lake without a bottom’. It was created from a crater and nowadays has a connection with the sea, which causes the water to be half fresh and half salt.

In the late antiquities this piece of coast line was already used as a harbour for the nearby Dorian city Lato.

Agios Nikolaos with her famous lake 'without a bottom'

History of Agios Nikolaos

During the fourth crusade, also called the ‘trading crusade’, that took place between 1202 and 1204 AD, the notorious pirate Pescatore established the ‘Castello de Mirabello’ on a hillside East of the present city centre. He did this in the name of Genua, that were in battle with the Venetians during this crusade. Eventually they lost and the Venetians governed the island for another four and half centuries after. During this period the island was called Candia, not Crete.

Agios Nikolaos back in the days

In 1645 the castle was conquered, because of betrayal, by the Turks but the Venetians fought wilfully and restored control over the castle that same year. To prevent the Turks from conquering the castle again the Venetians took drastic measures and simply took their own castle down. The name of the castle is still intact. It is used to name the bay in which the city is situated.

In the previous century people from the region of Sfakia, in the South of Crete, settled around the lake of Voulismeni. The village which was established was named after the nearby Saint Nikolas church and this is where the name ‘Agios Nikcolaos’ comes from. The holy Nikolaos is also the patron saint of seamen.

out of the Marina of Agios Nikolaos you can perfectly stroll into town
Agios Nicolaos has many tiny streets along the waterline
amazing views over Agios Nikolaos by night
amazing views in every corner of Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos as lively tourist centre

Till late 20th century Agios Nikolaos remained a village of several 1.000 inhabitants. After 1960, mainly influenced by tourism it grew in a rapid pace, to become the lively city it is today. In peak season it is very hard to imagine that the number of inhabitants is still approximately 30.000 people.

Agios Nicolaos is the perfect setting for your instagram photos

Available Routaki routes:

locals in front of a kafeneion in Archanes

Enjoy a Greek coffee in a Kafeneon in Archanes during route 53 – ‘Knossos’.

de kleine straatjes van de stad Rethymon

Visit also Rethymnon and drive afterwards to the south in route 32, towards Asia Gonia

met een mooi zicht op Spinalonga de lunch gebruiken en dan door rijden naar Agios Nikolaos

This topic is mentioned in…

Excerpt from ROUTE 58 – ‘Malia to Agios Nikolaos: A Scenic Drive Celebrating Historical Crete’ in which the following is told…

“You are currently driving on the old road to Agios Nikolaos, our destination for today. To avoid distractions in the busy town, I will share some details about this lively coastal town in advance.

Agios Nikolaos is the capital of the Lassithi prefecture, with a population of about 30,000 residents. The town’s main tourist attraction is the former Voulismeni Lake, located in the heart of the town and surrounded by numerous terraces. This lake, with a depth of 64 meters, is often referred to as ‘the bottomless lake.’ Originally formed from a crater, it now has a connection to the sea, resulting in water that is partly fresh and partly salty.

In the late antiquity, this part of the coastline served as the harbor for the nearby Doric city of Lato. During the Fourth Crusade (1202-1204 AD), also known as the ‘commercial crusade,’ the notorious pirate Pescatore established the ‘Castello de Mirabello’ on a hill east of the present-day city center. He did this on behalf of Genoa, which was in conflict with the Venetians during this crusade. Eventually, the Venetians prevailed and ruled the island for the next four and a half centuries. During this period, the island was not called Crete, but referred to as Candia.

In 1645, the castle was betrayed and captured by the Turks, but the Venetians fought back fiercely and recaptured it in the same year. To prevent the Turks from reclaiming the castle, the Venetians took the drastic measure of completely demolishing their own castle. However, the name of the castle was preserved and is still used to refer to the bay in which the city lies.

In the previous century, people from the Sfakia region, in the south of Crete, settled around Voulismeni Lake. The village founded there was named after the nearby church of Saint Nicholas, leading to the name ‘Agios Nikolaos.’ Saint Nicholas is also the patron saint of sailors.

Until the end of the 20th century, Agios Nikolaos remained a village with a few thousand inhabitants. After 1960, partly due to tourism, it underwent rapid growth and developed into the lively city it is today. During the peak season, it is hard to believe that the population still hovers around 30,000 people.

Continue along the old road.”

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